MOUNT EVEREST NORTH EXPEDITION 8848 M | CHINA | APRIL-JUNE | 2021

Talking about the north route, one climber noted, the North Face is a place where a simple slip would mean death. North face expedition mainly starts from Tibet side. Chinese climbers claimed to have reached the top via north route for the first time in 1960, which was not accepted because of lacking photographic evidence. Reinhold Messner who is regarded as the greatest climber ever, he pioneered a new road on the north col face. He trekked the Northwest route for three days only himself from his base camp at 6,500 metres without oxygen tanks for the first time in the history in 1980. In the same year Takashi Ozaki and Tsuneo Shigehiro become the first to scale Mount Everest from the North Face. Climbing from the North side is a perfect opportunity to see how you perform at an extreme altitude. North Face-NE Ridge is a perfect choice to make the success happen without less crowd comparing to south every year. You will do several rounds of practice climbing to acclimatize before actual climbing to the top.

The Base camp is situation just below the Rongbuk Monastery. It is about 20 km trek to reach the Advanced Base Camp (ABC). ABC is situated on rugged and fragmented ground with high speed winds welcoming you. From ABC to East Rongbuk Glacier, it’s fairly easy, following the snowy slopes to the North col, you will reach Camp I. The camp I rests between Everest and Changtse. Following long snowy slope, you will reach the camp II. The course from camp II to camp III is very stormy. Topography here is made up of rocks, which look fairly simple, but a slip here means death. However, there are ropes in place, which gives some senses of safety. From camp III, climbers will feel the need of oxygen; the route from camp III to camp IV is mixture of rocky steps. On this way you will find fixed ropes, which will lead you to right direction to the mountain. Camp IV is small camp; you will want to spend as little time here as possible. You will continue onto the North East Ridge, where you will encounter the first obstacle known as the first step. First step is rock structure about 30 meters high. Some steep rock climbing will lead you to second steps; second step is the most challenging of the entire obstacle. This is about 40m in height. Another tough rock climbing sessions, you will reach to third step. Third step is the easier of all and has height of 25m. After completing all three obstacles you will land on Summit Pyramid, from here you will see the shining crystals from top of the world.

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