Mout G-1 Expedition 2018 Print This Page

 Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and Hidden Peak, a name given by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its extreme remoteness. It is the highest peak among them. It is also the 11th highest peak in the world and is the second highest in the Karakoram Range. It is one of the four 8,000m peaks located in a tight cluster on the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier, the main access route to the mountains which cuts through the center of the Karakoram Range. The Karakoram is the second tallest mountain range on earth. It lies about a thousand miles west of Nepal's Himalaya mountain range. The range is bordered by Tajikistan, China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India. It is a condensed cluster of high peaks with 60 mountains over 6900 meters. Of the world's fourteen highest mountains, four are located within the Karakoram Range: K2, Gasherbrum I and II, and Broad Peak.

 
Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.
 
The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.
 
Gasherbrum I is one to the "least popular" of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.
 
The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to "The Japanese Couloir", which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

Day 01: Arrival in Islamabad & Transfer to the Hotel

Day 02: Rest day in Islamabad (585m)

Day 03: Fly from Islamabad to Skardu (2,228m)

Day 04: Rest Day in Skardu : Expedition briefing and preparation

Day 05: Drive from Skardu to Askole (2,600m) : Camping

Day 06: Trek from Askole to Jhola (3,185m) : Camping

Day 07: Trek from Jhola to Paiyu (3,383m) : Camping

Day 08: Rest day in Paiyu : Camping

Day 09: Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas (4,130m) : Camping

Day 10 : Trek from Urdukas to Goro II (4,250m) : Camping

Day 11: Trek from Goro II to Sharing   Camp 

Day 12:  from  Sharing to G1 Base camp 

 Day 13 - 43 : Climbing Period [Basecamp - Summit (8068m) - Basecamp]

Day 44: Cleaning Up Basecamp : Preparation for descending back

Day 45: Trek from Basecamp to Goro II  : Camping

Day 46: Trek from Goro II to Khuburtze : Camping

Day 47: Trek from Khuburtze to Mundung : Camping

Day 48: Trek from Mundung to Askole : Camping

Day 49: Drive from Askole to Skardu

Day 50: Fly from Skardu to Islamabad & transfer to the Hotel

Day 51: Leisure day in Islamabad

 

Day 52: Transfer to the International Airport for final departure

 Price Includes:                    

                         
(01) Arrival & Departure : Airport transfers-Airport/Hotel/Airport    
           
(02) Hotel In Islamabad  : 4 nights in Islamabad  4 star Hotel on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room       
                  
(03) Member transportation : Islamabad –Skardu  by air Skardu  to Askoly  by jeep Askoly  to Skardu by jeep  Skardu  to-Islamabad (by  air )  and Staff transpotation   Islamabad  to Askoly to Skardu by Jeep Skardu to Islamabad  By bus
 
                      
(04) Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation  for all Member and Staffs  From Islamabad –to Skardu by bus Skardu to  Askoly  (by jeep) –Base camp(by Porters)- base camp to Askoly (by porters) Askoly to Skardu (by jeep) Skardu to Islamabad by bus 
                       
(05) Permit : G1 Expedition permit , National park fees.      
              
(06) Garbage Management :Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees  
 
(07) Lodging & Fooding : Food 3 meals a day in Trekking & Base camp for member & Staffs    
 
(08) Cargo Clearance : International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes  
 
(09) Liaison Officer : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary ,accommodation . 
                       
(10) Base Camp Staff :  Base camp Cook &  kitchen Helper 
                        
(11) Porter : Porters per member up to Base camp & Porters return from Base camp  
 
 (12) Staff Salary and allowance : All  staffs & porters daily wages, equipment, food & clothing
                        
(13) Insurance : All Staffs Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance  
                      
(14) Member Luggage :60 Kg per member for personal baggage 
                        
(15) Base Tent : VE25 North face or Kailas  tents for base camp for per member   
                      
(16) Base Base equipment : Base camp foam mattresses, dinning, Kitchen, Toilet & Store tents, hot shower, Tables & chairs & Cooking gears
 
(17) Heater : Heater for base camp in each Dining tent 
 
(18) Light : 1 Solar panel for battery charge and light at base camp for use. 
  
(19) Dinner:  one Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Islamabad  with  Staff 
 
 
(01-19) Base camp service
 
    
(20) Oxygen: (O2)-Poisk cylinder: 02 oxygen bottle  for each member and 01 oxygen bottle for each high altitude Sherpa
 
                
(21) Mask & Regulator : 1 Set of top Out mask for each member and high altitude Sherpa 
  
(22) Permit : Satellite Phone /walkie talkie    Phone if necessary in basis of Member 
                  
(23) High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 Climbing Sherpa per member   
                     
(24) High camp service  : Necessary cooking gas,  cooking pot  for member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude  tent, high food  and fixing gear  (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4) 
 
 
(01-24) full board service
 
                   
Price Excludes:
                            
(01) Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner in Pakistan Hotel stay and more the 4 nights in Pakistan Hotel  
                       
(02) Insurance : Travel and high altitude insurance ,accident, medical & emergency evacuation   
                     
(03) Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet,  Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment and shopping   
                      
(04) Pakistan's Visa: Pakistan Visa should take into your home country or should  take visa upon arrival and pay visa fees as per the rule and regulation of Pakistan Government.
 
                     
(05) Sherpa summit Bonus & Tips : Sherpa Summit bonus US$1500 , please  calculate some tips     
                                          
(06) Rescue Evacuation : Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed and all other personal nature expenses

 Member Personal Equipment

S/No:  Particular.  Qty
(1). : Down suits (dangri) 1
(2)  : Summit shoe La Sportiva Olympus monts Evo 1
(3)  : Walking/ Hikking  shoe 1 & Trekking boot 1
(4)  : Crampon 1
(5)  : Summit Glove (Mitten) 1
(6)  : Normal gloves 2
(7)  : Summit Snow goggles 1
(8)  : Glacier glasses 1
(9)  : Ice axe 1
(10) : Harness & tapsling  1
(11) : Jumer 1
(12) :  Carabiners (normal) 3
(13) : Sleeping bag (-40C) 1
(14) : Down filled Mattress 1
(15) : Summit socks 2
(16) : Normal socks 6 
(17) : Climbing bag (40 ltr) 1
(18) : Helmet 1
(19) : Down jacket 1
(20) : Down trouser 1
(21) : 8 finger / descender 1
(22) : Headlamp (Icon or Spot) 1
(23) : Gore-tex jacket 1
(24) : Gore-tex trouser 1
(25) : Fleece jacket 3
(26) : Fleece trouser 2
(27) : Fleece liner gloves 3
(28) : Screw Gate Carabiner 2
(29) : Balaclava (windstopper) 1
(30) : Thermos bottle 1
(31) : Base layer (woolen) 2 (set)
(32) : Water bottle normal 1
(33) : Sun cream 50spf 
(34) : Leap Gurd 30spf 
(35) : Swise Knife  1
 
Climbing Gears wich is Company will manage for the team  
S/No Particular
(1)  : Ice crews 1
(2)  : Fix rope  
(3)  : snow bars
(4)  : EPI gas
(5)  : Rock piton
(6)  : Carabiners (normal)
(7)  : High tent
(8)  : Summit rope
(9)  : Cooking pot
(10) : Snow shovel
(12) : ce hammer / adge (set)
(13) : Member high food
(14) : Oxygen bottle  (O2) 
(15) : Oxygen Mask & regulator 
(16) : Quick Draws